June 17th Thursday

I'm in Massey Ontario, after a 450 mile ride, watching the NBA final game 7. Tomorrow I will end the day in Toronto at my daughter's and Ben's apartment. It will be so nice to spend time with them. I plan to be in Toronto for at least a week before moving on.

Lake Superior is amazing. There are hundreds of islands not too far from the main shore line of Ontario. Two ladies that were staying at the bed and breakfast had been kayaking between some of the islands. They had a guide and had stayed out on the islands camping for 4 days. Today they were heading to the Shale Islands. These islands were created by a meteor that struck Lake Superior. They are also noted for a large population of caribou.

The coast line of Lake Superior varies from rocky shores to sandy beaches. It's over 160 miles wide and 300 miles long. It's the largest body of fresh water in the world and is impacted by tides. Incredible small inlets with large and small resorts dotting the coast. Looking at this body of water - you would think it was an ocean - the give away - no salt sea smell.

Lakers win!!!

Tomorrow - Toronto.

June 16 - Lake Superior - Eastern Time

The Lakers did a nice job on the Celtics last night and it was a great way to start the day. There was a little rain but not bad. I made it to Thunder Bay and beyond. My plan was to spend the night in one of the many parks. The weather was fine and it seemed like a good day to sleep under the stars (in a tent). I also figured it was time to donate some more blood to the local mosquito population.

As I was riding along one of the towns coming up was Rossport. It was almost 5pm and I thought that I would just cruise through. What a great little find. Right on Lake Superior in a little sheltered bay. There were three bed and breakfast inns and I picked the Willow. A great place - clean and neat.

The town has a population of 100. I went for a walk down to one of the other inns - The Ross Port Inn - where I met John and Karl, both from Atlanta, and riding BMW motorcycles to Alaska. They gave me some great tips on where to go in Nova Scotia if I take that route instead of Labrador.












Here's a PS - as I was walking out to tuck my bike in - Steve and Linda from California were unloading their car (Boxter). Steve is a physician in Benicia and and Linda is a teacher (Steve retired in December - maybe it a theme) - Linda is still working. They are headed to Labrador and to visit their daughter in New York. They are taking only two lane roads and driving with the convertible top down. They have a blog - check it out www.twolanes-topdown.blogspot.com. Small world - and what are they doing following me...???

Okay - so for the trivia bit from last night - here is what it looks like completed. On each side of the highway there are 6 to 7 foot fences to try and keep deer, elk and other animals from trying to cross the road and ending up as a part of a car (or motorcycle). The tunnel is really a fenced over-pass for animals to get from one side of the road to another. They have these every 5 to 10 miles.



If you are not following me on the maps - here's the address again.

This is the link that takes you right to the map. http://www.spotadventures.com/user/profile?user_id=55906

June 15th - 2 weeks

I've been on the road for two weeks. I've met some interesting people and have been to parts of North America that I've never seen. I crossed into Ontario around 10:00am and it seemed that the landscape changed almost immediately. The rolling planes of Saskatchewan and Manitoba were replaced by lake after lake after lake with the highways lined on both sides with trees. It would appear, based on the conditions of the infrastructure of Ontario, that they have significant more money to spend on upkeep. Another noticeable difference - you are warned that driving over the speed limit can result in the immediate loss of you vehicle. I've seen more RCMP in Ontario today than in the last two weeks combined. I've slowed down.

On the animal front - today along the road I've spotted deer, beaver, and a very large fox. I'm sure that along the route I passed at least 100 or more beaver lodges and many dams. Some of the lodges might be missing a few occupants, if the squished beavers on the road are any indication.

Small lakes with cabins lining the shore and docks with pontoon planes are numerous. The planes would indicate the most expedient mode of transportation and a way to bypass the the potential loss of your car.

It started raining again and it gave me a good excuse to pull into a small motel and watch the Lakers beat the Celtics.

Tomorrow it's on to Thunder Bay (I hope) - but I'm not in a real hurry.....

Here's a bit more trivia. Check the last picture. This was in Alberta. It would appear to be tunnels being constructed, not through a mountain but - what - through air...???

I'll show you the finished product on my next posting.

Okay - it's game time.

June 12th & 13th Saskatoon & Riding Mountain

After Rosetown - I rolled into Saskatoon and planned to spend the day but the hotels were a little pricey. How do you go on a motorcycle ride with a tent and camping gear and stay in a $200 hotel? I decided to get a "real" sleeping bag instead. I found an outdoor store with great service and a good selection of bags. I traded in my 6 pound 50 degree bag for a 2 pound 20 degree bag. The clerk pointed to the "Spot" satellite tracker that I ware on my coat sleeve and asked me if it was my heart rate monitor....

Saskatoon is an interesting city - lot of young people and a lot of activity. By the remarks that I've heard from Canadians, Saskatchewan is looked down on. It is one of the poorer of the provinces although that seems to be changing to some degree. Mostly agriculture and some minerals seem to be what sustains the province. Saskatoon on the other hand seemed to be a little more cosmopolitan with a lot of activity. The Saskatoonians are proud of the city and I'm sorry that I didn't have a little more time to take in the sights.

My next planned stop was Riding Mountain National Park in Manitoba - so that's the direction I headed. Along the way I spent the night at a private campground in Foam Lake - clean and quite.

The next day I headed out to find Riding Mountain without a map. I've had no maps. They take up too much room - but it does present challenges. My alternative is to get internet access where I can and then go to Google maps and plan my route - but I have had no way to print the route. I do have a GPS - mostly to make sure there are gas stations along the way and I do enter my destination but to use it I have to stop. I did make it to Riding Mountain and found a great camp site. The tourist season hasn't started here yet so things have been nice without a lot of crowds.

Okay - so I've seen a lot of "big rocks" and a lot of water. What about animals? I've seen one bear, two coyotes, a lot of deer, three elk, so many prairie dogs that I can't count and today an Ermine.

Right now I'm in Winnipeg Manitoba - home of the Wailin Jennys - www.thewailinjennys.com - check them out.

Here's a bit of trivia - meet Ria. Ria worked for Cirque du Soleil setting up shows all around the world - including setting up "O" in Vegas for the first time. And for those of you that didn't know - Cirque du Soleil is a Canadian company based in Montreal. Ria said they were a great company to work for. Guess where they get their performers - how about the Olympics.

Tomorrow - Ontario and Thunder Bay.

June 11th - Lake Louise to Rosetown

Right now I'm sitting in a Starbucks in Saskatoon - on the internet and using Skype to make a few calls. Ain't it great.

Yesterday the ride from Deadman's Flats to Lake Louise and then to Rosetown was pleasant. Pleasant means - no rain.

Lake Louise is about 30 minutes north from Banff. The lake is not all that big but the setting was spectacular. The lake looks like it just dropped out of the sky and settled in between this magnificent mountain - (thanks Brian).

I ended my ride in Rosetown - a very small town in Saskatchewan about 40 minutes from Saskatoon. Like so many things that have happened on this ride, this morning while having breakfast in the very small breakfast room at the Rosetown Motel - I met Ron Pegg and his wife Cathy. Ron is a retired school teacher, and coach and has been writing books - the latest, on the life of Ernest Manning. Ernest Manning was the premier of Alberta for 7 consecutive terms and always held a majority government. Manning was born in Saskatchewan not far from Rosetown and Ron was going to be participating in a local book signing. Ron asked me if I had heard of Ernest Manning and I said no. He said he was a politician and I asked if he was a good man or a crook. He said, "a good man." Manning was responsible for setting up the royalty system with the gas and oil companies in Alberta. Over the years - this system has contributed significantly to the financial health of Alberta. In Canada, Alberta and Saskatchewan in particular, Manning is considered a Giant Among Giants.

Ron and Cathy live in Ontario and graciously invited me to visit.

Today I will probably stay close to Saskatoon and then head to Riding Mountain Park in Manitoba on Sunday. It looks like sunshine.

June 10th - BigHorn Motel - Deadman's Flat

Yesterday (June 9th) at this time I was riding in 35 degree weather, and soaked to the bone. When I stopped at a Starbucks in Calgary, I left puddles of water with each step (along with a gushing sound). Even the inside of my helmet was soaked through. There was not any part of me that was dry - except my rain gear that was packed inside my bag. Some of you might wonder why I would not be wearing my rain gear, it’s a valid question. I do have a heated jacket and heated handgrips on the bike. The jacket was soaking wet but at least when I plugged it in I did get some heat. I guess I was quite the sight at stop lights in Calgary - a guy on a motorcycle in the rain with steam coming out of his jacket.

You never know just what is around the bend when you’re traveling, what experience you might have or who you might meet. I could not find a room Calgary - all I wanted was to get to someplace, out of the city, where I could get a room without selling my bike to do it. An hour later and about 15 miles from Banff, I saw the “Bighorn Motel” along the road in Deadman’s Flat. I stopped, got a room and was in the shower for at least 30 minutes. But - like a lot of things that happen on a trip like this, it isn’t the ride that will be remembered but the people I meet.

The owners of the motel are Jivan and Rambha. If you are ever this way, it’s worth a stay just to meet them. In the first 5 minutes I liked them, within the next 2 hours I considered them friends and now on my second night here I have invited them to visit us in California.

Jivan and Rambha moved to Canada 35 years ago from Kenya. Rambha, Jivan’s wife was born at the foothills of Mt Kenya. Both of their children were born in Kenya. They moved to Canada because of the increase in violence and issues of security in Kenya. Jivan said when they got off the plane in Edmonton, Alberta it was January 1975 and a minus 40 degrees. Jivan’s first job was with Alberta Power. He moved to other jobs over the years to be in a more hospitable climate. Rambha was a nurse. Both are now retired, if you could call running a motel a retirement.

Jivan’s cousin Bill and his wife, also named Rambha, are visiting from the UK. Bill was born in Kenya and his wife in Uganda.

Jivan and I, in a very short period of time, have had some pretty personal conversations and I want to acknowledge here how much it has meant to me. I don’t want to go into a lot of detail but Jivan and Rambha tragically lost their son in an avalanche at Kicking Horse British Columbia. He was skiing with a friend in steep, deep powder of the rugged Canadian backcountry. Both he and his friend were lost. He leaves two children without a father, a wife without her husband and two parents without their son, Hima.

Hima raced for Porsche racing and raced at Daytona, Laguna Seca, Montreal and won the Canadian GT Championship in 2000. He owned one of the most prestigious shops in Canada, Riegel Tuning, in Calgary. He founded Maher Racing Inc. in 1999.

What is striking in this is the impact the love of parents along with their common sense can have on the growth of children. Never was Hima discouraged from what he always wanted to do, from the very youngest age, but was given love and the guidance that is necessary to turn a desire into reality. The same can be said for Hima’s sister Diviani who is a practicing physician in Vancouver. Where Diviani was into reading and academics, Hima was into mechanics. What was and is common between the two, was and is, two outstanding parents.

I asked Jivan if he and his wife were involved in any community activities and they both volunteer at the local hospital. I think they have done a lot to make this world a better place. Impacts made, lives touched, people changed, not the least of which has been mine.

What was a miserable wet day yesterday is a much brighter day today - even with the rain.

Tuesday June 8th and Wednesday June 9th

Tuesday June 8th the weather held. In fact it was great the entire trip to Glacier. All along the drive to Glacier the Montana landscape was a patchwork of brown, dead or dyeing pine trees. So far, Montana has lost at least a million acres to the Pine Bark Beetle.

The road leading out of Helena, once off of the interstate, was a series of rolling hills with the vast expanse of the Rockies in the background. The pictures are from various vantage points up to and leading into and through a part of the park. If a picture is worth a 1000 words then there are no pictures that I could include that would do this place justice. What’s missing from the pictures is the scope of the place.

I knew that the weather would be good on Tuesday but that it was supposed to cloud over and start raining again on Wednesday so I did as much as I could on Tuesday. I entered on the east side of the park because of better weather. There’s a road that goes through the middle of the park, from east to west, that is supposed to be spectacular. As of June 8th the road was still closed because of snow. If you look close at the picture on the right you can see a couple of cars at a turn-out. On the picture on the left there are trees on a ridge at the bottom - this might help in giving an idea of the scale.

I pulled into one of the many campgrounds and set up my tent to discover that my expensive down sleeping bag was either along the road somewhere or at home in the garage keeping the mice warm. I road 12 miles to a small outdoor store and bought the only sleeping bag they had -$40 good to 35 degrees. After spending the night - they should revise that to 55 degrees.

The parks are great and the camp sites are nice but what you have to deal with to contend with the bears does make camping a real chore. You can’t picnic, you can’t wash your dishes, unless you are in a camper that can contain the gray water. The black bear in the picture just walked past my tent after deciding I was too old to eat.

June 9th I packed and hit the road to Calgary and Lake Louise. It rained straight the entire trip.

In Calgary I had had enough of the rain and the first motel I spotted was a Days Inn -$329 a night - the next motel was a flea bag for $280 and the Hyatt was $650. I asked what was going on and was told the largest petro convention in the world was in town.

I headed towards Banff and was wet and unbelievably cold and finally got to a motel about 20 miles from my destination. I’ve been trying to dry out my shoes in the microwave (I hope the smell doesn't taint who ever uses it after me). Also - my cell phone no longer works. But - hey - it’s all a part of the adventure.

On a motorcycle some days are better than others. For good or bad - you do experience the weather.